wa 89 The Gaujals (for some details about whom, consult issue 173) render from their appellation a wine that not only fulfills its duty to be irresistibly thirst-quenching, but has a serious side as well. The Gaujal St.-Bon 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet smells of verbena, orange zest, ripe peaches and melons. Hints of salted caramel and shrimp shell reduction mingle strikingly with the luscious fruits on the soothingly-smooth palate, leading to a zesty, mineral-tinged, refreshing, and by no means inconsequential finish.